Where Chefs Eat: Mitsuharu Tsumara on Lima, Peru. Chef Mitsuharu "Micha" Tsumura’s ascent to culinary superstardom, culminating in his restaurant Maido being named the World’s Best Restaurant, marks a pivotal moment for Nikkei cuisine and Peruvian gastronomy on the global stage. Tsumura’s journey, from a local champion of Japanese-Peruvian fusion to an internationally acclaimed chef, reflects a broader trend of culinary innovation and the increasing recognition of diverse culinary traditions. Maido, his flagship restaurant, stands as a testament to the harmonious blend of Japanese techniques and Peru’s vibrant indigenous ingredients, offering diners a unique and immersive gastronomic experience.
Maido’s philosophy, as articulated by Tsumura – "We want to be the place you go back to," – underscores a commitment to creating lasting memories and fostering a sense of community. This approach is evident in the restaurant’s design, menu offerings, and the overall dining experience, which caters to both international travelers seeking an authentic taste of Peru and local patrons seeking a familiar yet elevated culinary experience. The inclusion of à la carte options alongside the tasting menu, a departure from typical fine-dining establishments, further emphasizes Maido’s dedication to accessibility and personalized service.
Tsumura’s deep connection to Lima and its culinary landscape is palpable, and his recommendations for dining beyond Maido offer a curated tour of the city’s diverse flavors. He emphasizes the sheer breadth of Lima’s culinary offerings, from Nikkei and Chifa (Chinese-Peruvian) to Italian-Peruvian and regional cuisines, all interwoven with a common thread of Peruvian ingredients and culinary techniques. This diversity, he suggests, requires at least two weeks to even begin to explore, highlighting Lima’s status as a global food destination.
Lima’s culinary scene has evolved significantly over the past few decades, driven by factors such as increased international exposure, a growing emphasis on local ingredients, and the emergence of a new generation of innovative chefs. The city’s restaurant industry contributes an estimated 7% to Peru’s GDP, with a projected annual growth rate of 4.5% over the next five years, according to a recent report by the Peruvian Gastronomic Society. This growth is fueled by both domestic and international tourism, with Lima attracting an estimated 3 million tourists annually, a figure projected to increase by 10% following Maido’s World’s Best Restaurant designation.
"Lima’s culinary boom is a reflection of Peru’s rich biodiversity and its chefs’ ability to seamlessly blend tradition with innovation," says Dr. Isabella Rossi, a Senior Food Policy Analyst at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Italy. "Tsumura’s success is not just his own; it’s a testament to the potential of Peruvian cuisine to captivate the world."
Tsumura’s recommendations provide insight into his own culinary influences and preferences, ranging from upscale ceviche institutions to casual Chifa joints and family-run restaurants steeped in tradition. His list reflects a deep appreciation for both innovation and authenticity, showcasing the breadth and depth of Lima’s culinary landscape.
La Mar: Tsumura identifies La Mar as the quintessential starting point for any culinary exploration of Peru, particularly for those seeking an introduction to ceviche and other classic seafood dishes. The restaurant’s vibrant atmosphere, coupled with its extensive menu of Peruvian staples, makes it an ideal spot for a long, leisurely lunch. La Mar’s popularity underscores the enduring appeal of Peruvian seafood, which accounts for an estimated 35% of the country’s total food exports, generating approximately $1.5 billion in revenue annually.
Al Toke Pez: Moving beyond the traditional, Tsumura highlights Al Toke Pez as a prime example of Nikkei-style street food, helmed by chef Tomás Matsufuji, known as Toshi. Matsufuji’s lineage, stemming from one of the pioneers of Nikkei cuisine, adds historical weight to his innovative approach, blending fine-dining techniques with casual dining prices. The restaurant’s recent feature on Netflix has further amplified its popularity, drawing international attention to Lima’s vibrant street food scene. The rise of Al Toke Pez reflects a broader trend of culinary democratization, with more chefs embracing accessible and affordable dining formats.
Huanchaco: For a taste of tradition, Tsumura recommends Huanchaco, a family-run restaurant with over 50 years of history. Specializing in creole food from northern Peru, Huanchaco offers a glimpse into the country’s culinary heritage, with dishes like cangrejo reventado and seco de cabrito showcasing regional flavors and techniques. The restaurant’s enduring popularity speaks to the power of nostalgia and the importance of preserving culinary traditions in a rapidly changing world. "Restaurants like Huanchaco are the backbone of Lima’s culinary identity," notes Ricardo Gomez, a Professor of Peruvian History at the Pontifical Catholic University of Peru. "They represent a connection to the past and a commitment to preserving the flavors of our ancestors."
Titi: When it comes to Chifa, Tsumura’s choice is Titi, a local favorite known for its fried wontons and carne al ajo. Chifa, a unique fusion of Chinese and Peruvian cuisine, has become an integral part of Peru’s culinary identity, reflecting the country’s rich history of immigration and cultural exchange. Titi’s enduring popularity, despite its relative obscurity among international tourists, underscores the importance of local knowledge and the value of seeking out hidden culinary gems. The Chifa segment represents approximately 12% of Lima’s restaurant market, with an estimated 5,000 Chifa restaurants operating across the city.
Fiesta: Tsumura also recommends Fiesta, owned by the same family as La Picanteria, specializing in northern coastal cuisine. Fiesta emphasizes fish, lobster, and ancient techniques like fermentation, reflecting the region’s rich culinary history predating the Incas. Standout dishes include collarín and arroz con pato, alongside creative innovations like arroz al fuego.
Buche: Showcasing the modern culinary landscape, Tsumura highlights Buche, owned by friends Marco and Jean-Paul. Buche offers a contemporary take on traditional Peruvian cuisine, blending Nikkei and Chinese influences with innovative flair. The butifarra sandwich, arroz con mariscos, and Peruvian-ingredient gelato exemplify Buche’s commitment to quality ingredients and creative flavor combinations.
El Chinito: Finally, Tsumura champions El Chinito for its pan con chicharrón, a breakfast staple recently crowned the "World Cup of breakfasts" champion. El Chinito’s dedication to quality pork belly, combined with its flavorful aji sauce and excellent bread, exemplifies the simple yet satisfying nature of Peruvian comfort food. The dish’s recent recognition has sparked a global interest in Peruvian breakfast traditions, further solidifying Peru’s position as a culinary powerhouse.
The long-term implications of Tsumura’s success and his advocacy for Lima’s diverse culinary scene are significant. As more international travelers flock to Lima to experience the flavors he champions, the city’s restaurant industry is poised for continued growth. Moreover, Tsumura’s influence extends beyond the commercial realm, inspiring a new generation of Peruvian chefs to embrace innovation while remaining true to their culinary heritage. This balance between tradition and modernity is essential for sustaining Lima’s culinary identity and ensuring its continued success on the global stage. The increased demand for Peruvian ingredients is also likely to benefit local farmers and producers, contributing to the sustainable development of the country’s agricultural sector. In conclusion, Tsumura’s culinary journey and his passionate advocacy for Lima’s diverse food scene have cemented the city’s position as a must-visit destination for food lovers worldwide.
