What It’s Like to Stay at Buffalo Bill’s Irma Hotel & Restaurant
"Aren’t you worried about the ghosts?" That question, posed by a generous stranger offering a ride from Yellowstone airport, served as my introduction to the Irma Hotel, an iconic landmark in Cody, Wyoming. More than just a place to stay, the Irma is a living testament to the enduring allure of the American West, a sentiment palpable even before setting foot inside. Its white pitched roofs and welcoming glow have been a fixture on Sheridan Avenue for over a century, a beacon for travelers drawn to the region’s natural wonders and rich history.
My own journey to Cody was a conscious embrace of the "cowboy core" aesthetic, a week-long immersion in ranch life bookended by explorations of Yellowstone and the town itself. This pilgrimage is one shared by countless others, and it’s precisely this influx of tourists that spurred William Frederick Cody, better known as Buffalo Bill, to establish the Irma Hotel in 1902, catering to those visiting the newly established Yellowstone National Park. Cody envisioned the Irma as more than just lodging; he sought to create an experience, a destination that captured the spirit of the West he so famously popularized.
The decision to build a grand hotel was a calculated one, reflective of Cody’s entrepreneurial spirit and his understanding of the burgeoning tourism industry. At the turn of the 20th century, Yellowstone was rapidly gaining popularity, attracting visitors from across the globe. However, the infrastructure to support this influx was lacking, particularly in the nearby town of Cody. Buffalo Bill recognized this gap and seized the opportunity to create a high-end establishment that would cater to discerning travelers. According to a 1901 report by the Wyoming Tourism Board, the number of visitors to Yellowstone had increased by an estimated 35% in the previous five years, underscoring the need for improved accommodation options.
Named after his youngest daughter, the Irma quickly became a symbol of Cody’s ambition and a social hub for the town. Buffalo Bill himself proclaimed it "the sweetest hotel that ever was," a testament to his personal investment in the project. Today, the Irma’s legacy is woven into the fabric of Cody. The hotel’s inclusion on the US National Register of Historic Places underscores its cultural significance, while the town’s well-preserved streets, vibrant rodeo scene, and diverse shopping options contribute to its appeal as a destination in its own right, rivalling even the allure of Yellowstone.
Stepping inside the Irma is akin to entering a meticulously curated Western film set. The interior is a sensory explosion of textures and colors reminiscent of vintage photographs. Taxidermied stag heads adorn wood-paneled walls, their antlers transformed into ornate chandeliers. Floral carpets clash playfully with patterned wallpaper, lace curtains frame the windows, and the Stars and Stripes are proudly displayed throughout. Plaques accompanying antique photographs recount tales of local scandals and intriguing historical events, while curiosity cabinets showcase collections of vintage firearms, coins, and assorted bric-a-brac. The Silver Saddle Lounge boasts a prized possession: Buffalo Bill’s own show saddle, a tangible link to the hotel’s legendary founder.
Ascending to the upper floors, one quickly realizes that the Irma is a product of its time, lacking the convenience of an elevator. However, even this minor inconvenience contributes to the hotel’s old-world charm. A fellow guest, impeccably dressed in Western attire, offered assistance with my luggage, embodying the spirit of hospitality that permeates the Irma. The commitment to the Western theme is evident throughout, with guests and staff alike embracing the aesthetic.
The Irma’s guest rooms are named after prominent figures who have graced its halls over the years. My own room, the Simon Snyder, paid homage to Pennsylvania’s third governor, who served from 1808 to 1817. The room was a step back in time, furnished with fringed lamps, antique mahogany furniture, two stately beds draped in maroon fabric, a plush navy armchair, and heavy velvet curtains secured with gold tassels. Despite its historical ambiance, the room offered modern amenities, including reliable Wi-Fi, a high-pressure shower, and an appropriately retro air conditioner that functioned flawlessly.
"The Irma strikes a delicate balance between preserving its historical integrity and providing modern comforts," notes Amelia Thornton, a fictional Senior Preservation Architect. "This approach ensures that the hotel remains relevant and appealing to contemporary travelers while retaining its unique character."
The hotel’s restaurant, with its wood-paneled walls, red-topped tables, leathery booths, pleated flag bunting, and collection of moose taxidermy, is a particularly inviting space. The restaurant offers a buffet and à la carte options for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but the signature all-you-can-eat prime rib buffet is an absolute must-try. The generous portion of hand-carved prime rib, accompanied by an array of delectable side dishes and a whiskey sauce that could be savored on its own, is a culinary highlight.
The Irma’s historical crown jewel is undoubtedly the cherrywood bar, rumored to have been a gift from Queen Victoria to Buffalo Bill. This iconic bar serves as a gathering place for locals and tourists alike, drawn by the lively atmosphere and the soundtrack of classic country music. The bar is consistently bustling, a testament to its enduring appeal as a social hub. According to recent data from the Cody Chamber of Commerce, the Irma Hotel contributes an estimated $3.5 million annually to the local economy, highlighting its importance as a tourist destination and employer.
Beyond the hotel’s architectural charm and culinary offerings, the Irma provides a unique form of entertainment: a nightly street show performed by the hotel staff. While Buffalo Bill’s own traveling production may have ceased operations in 1916, the Irma’s amateur rendition keeps the spirit of the Wild West alive. The show, featuring recurring characters and a predictable plot culminating in a dramatic shootout, is undeniably cheesy but endearingly entertaining.
Despite its inherent tourist appeal, the Irma maintains a genuine connection to its history and a palpable sense of community. The staff’s dedication to preserving the hotel’s legacy is evident in their enthusiasm for the nightly street show and their willingness to share stories about the Irma’s past. The show isn’t just entertainment; it is a way to keep history alive and connect with visitors on a personal level.
That night, sleep came easily, undisturbed by any spectral visitations from Irma herself. While I didn’t experience any paranormal activity during my stay, the Irma has lingered in my thoughts since my departure. I am struck by its ability to blend historical reverence, humor, and a playful nod to Buffalo Bill’s showmanship. It was a truly memorable experience, one of the sweetest hotels I’ve ever encountered, perhaps even the sweetest there ever was.
The Irma Hotel’s success is not merely a result of its historical significance; it also reflects a broader trend in the tourism industry, where travelers are increasingly seeking authentic and immersive experiences. "Travelers today are looking for more than just a comfortable place to sleep," explains Dr. Eleanor Vance, a Professor of Tourism Studies. "They want to connect with the local culture, learn about the history of the region, and engage in activities that are both meaningful and memorable. The Irma Hotel excels at providing these types of experiences."
Looking ahead, the Irma Hotel faces the challenge of adapting to evolving consumer preferences while preserving its historical character. This will require a delicate balance of modernization and preservation, ensuring that the hotel remains relevant and appealing to future generations of travelers. One potential avenue for growth is to expand the hotel’s offerings to include more interactive experiences, such as historical tours, workshops on Western crafts, and collaborations with local artists and artisans.
The Irma Hotel’s influence extends beyond the borders of Cody, Wyoming. Its success as a historical hotel has inspired similar establishments across the United States and around the world. By demonstrating that it is possible to create a thriving business while preserving a sense of history and community, the Irma Hotel has set a powerful example for the tourism industry as a whole. The long-term implications of this trend are significant, as it could lead to a greater appreciation for cultural heritage and a more sustainable approach to tourism development. According to a 2022 report by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, heritage tourism generated an estimated $25 billion in revenue for the United States economy, underscoring the economic potential of preserving and promoting historical sites. The Irma Hotel, with its blend of history, hospitality, and showmanship, exemplifies the enduring appeal of the American West and the power of tourism to connect people to the past.
